| Fault | Possible cause | Remedy |
| 1 | 2 | 3 |
| Hard brake pedal | Incorrectly installed brake pads or pads | Check and replace pads if necessary |
| Pedal stuck on axle | Repair or replace axle and bushings | |
| Clogged or flattened brake lines | Check tubing, repair or replace tubing | |
| Jammed pistons of working brake cylinders (calipers) | Check, repair or replace pistons or cylinders (calipers) |
Attention: The vacuum brake booster can be checked as follows. With the engine off, press the brake pedal several times to remove the vacuum from the booster. Pressing the brake pedal all the way down and holding it, start the engine. If the booster is working properly, the brake pedal sags noticeably and requires less pressure to depress it. If the pedal does not sag when the engine is running, then the amplifier is most likely not working.
| 1 | 2 | 3 |
| Wedging the brake | Clogged brake master cylinder | Check and flush the brake master cylinder and compensator reservoir with clean brake fluid |
| Corrosion of pistons or working surfaces of brake cylinders (caliper) | Check, repair or replace pistons/cylinders | |
| Handbrake stuck | Find and fix the problem | |
| Broken or stretched brake shoe return springs | Replace faulty springs | |
| Handbrake cables stuck in guides | Replace cables |
Attention: To check, raise the car and place stands under the chassis.
Turning the wheels in turn, determine the wheel whose brake mechanism is sticking. Press and release the brake pedal. The wheels must turn freely. The reason for the jamming of two wheels at the same time is damage to the tubes of the line from the main brake cylinder. Open the bleed valve on the failed brake to see if this is the cause.
Built-up internal pressure or mechanical failure. A rusted handbrake cable is also the cause of both rear wheels seizing. To confirm this cause, disconnect the handbrake cable from the equalizer bar and check if the wheels now rotate.
| Brake pedal "soft" | Rear brake pads incorrectly adjusted | Check and adjust the rear brake | |
| Lack of brake fluid in the system | Check the tightness of the system, add liquid and remove air from the system | ||
| Air ingress into the hydraulic brake system | Bleed the system to remove air | ||
Warning: "Softness" brake pedal usually means there is air in the system. Possible leaks at pipe/hose connections. First eliminate the cause of air ingress, then bleed the brake system. Fluid leakage indicates the location of damage. | |||
| Locking the brakes when braking | Sticking of friction linings due to dirt | Replace friction linings or brake pads | |
| Damaged or oversized brake drums | Check and replace drums if necessary | ||
| Broken or stretched brake shoe return springs | Check and replace all springs, if necessary | ||
Attention: If the springs are stretched, at the same time check the condition of the friction linings. Check the return springs by comparing their free length with the length of the new springs. Vibration when braking the brake pedal indicates deformed brake drums or discs | |||
| Brake Pedal Vibration | Broken geometry of brake drums or discs (unacceptable beat) | Check and replace damaged drums or discs | |
| Loose or worn front wheel bearings | Repair or replace front wheel bearings | ||
| Bent rear axle | Check and replace all damaged parts | ||
Attention: Unevenly worn brake drums or discs can be machined on a lathe or grinder.
| Inefficient braking | Incorrect brake pad adjustment | Check and adjust the rear brake |
| Brake pads or friction linings soaked in brake fluid or grease | Replace pads or friction linings | |
| Friction linings made of a different material installed | Check and install friction linings recommended by the manufacturer | |
ATTENTION: Often the inefficiency of the brakes is the result of fording a water obstacle. Stop and let the water drain, dry the brakes to restore their effectiveness with a few hard stops. Be especially careful when doing this, because. the car under such braking behaves worse than on ice. | ||
| Brake overheating | Rear brake pads incorrectly adjusted | Check and adjust the rear brake |
| Broken brake shoe return spring | Replace spring (springs) | |
| Damaged or misadjusted handbrake cables | Check cables, replace or adjust them | |
| Jammed pistons of working brake cylinders (calipers) | Check, repair or replace pistons | |
| The compensation channel of the main brake cylinder is clogged | Clear the compensation channel | |
| Clogged hole in the cover of the expansion tank of the brake master cylinder | Check and clean the hole | |
| Destroyed main leaf or rear spring center bolt | Check and replace damaged parts | |
| Too frequent and hard braking | Pay attention to driving style | |
Attention: As a rule, damage is easy to detect by traces of brake fluid. | ||
| Brake failure (pedal "failed") | Damaged brake master cylinder | Remove and overhaul the brake master cylinder |
| Loss of tightness of a cuff of the working brake cylinder (caliper) | Overhaul or replace the slave brake cylinder (caliper), pump the system | |
| Destruction of a hose, tube or their connection | Replace defective parts and bleed the system | |
| Air entering the system | Find and fix the problem. Bleed the system | |
| The presence of water in the brake fluid | Change fluid and bleed system | |
| Braking noise | Brake screeching when braking. Increased Purity (lack of microroughness - like a polished surface) friction material surfaces | Remove, inspect the brake pads and sand the surface of the pad with coarse sandpaper |
| rattle | The friction linings are completely worn out. Inspect brake pads, replace brake pads or pad assemblies, machine or replace brake drum or disc | |
Warning: Brake screech is sometimes caused by "burnt" friction material on the brake pads. Noisy brakes can also be caused by improper friction material, missing shims or springs holding the pads.
If the brake linings or pads are worn to the ground, it is recommended to replace the pads with a complete set (four pieces) and necessarily o6e brake pads of one wheel. If the brake drum OR disc is scratched, they can be bored or replaced, otherwise braking performance will decrease (with small scratches, you can do nothing).